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Technical Support
 
Products
Shock Adjustment

Your New Shock Absorbers
On your new shock are a wide range of adjustment possibilities that affect the shock in various ways. Now we shall explain to you the ins and outs and above all, how it affects the different attitudes on handling of your motorcycle.

Prior to delivery, the shock was adjusted to your personal requirements (that's why we needed information from you - for your shock.)

The questions asked about your body weight were not based on curiosity, but to determine the load carrying capacity. For determining the spring rate, we asked about the targeted application of your bike (i.e. Touring with or without luggage or pillion, racing or just everyday use). We then manufactured an individual shock for you, from the information you provided us.

We now ask you to note these basic adjustments we have given you, so that you can then fine-tune the shock yourself. You can however, adjust the spring rate with the C-spanner or with the optional hydraulic spring pre-load tensioner. As with most YSS shocks, a hydraulic spring tensioner can be fitted, to make spring tension adjustment child's play.

Your shock has the following basic adjustments:
Rebound: 22 clicks
Compression Ü low-speed: 22 to 24 clicks
Compression Ü high-speed: 22 to 24 clicks
The spring rate has been pre-adjusted by us!

 

Rebound dampening
A red adjustment wheel at the base of the shock is there to adjust the suspension and rebound rate. The rebound dampening is adjusted through 22 clicks (You can feel and hear them). The maximum rebound dampening is reached by turning the wheel to the right. So, if you turn the wheel to the left, you are slowing the rebound.

Compression dampening operates in a similar way. The compression adjustment is there to adjust the spring speed.

The compression phase absorption is divided into two ranges:
1. Compression phase low-speed: Blue adjusting screw
2. Compression phase high-speed: Red adjusting screw
Both are found on the reservoir.
The compression phase functions as follows:
In low-speed: up to 0.5m/sec spring speed
In high-speed: from 0.5 to 4.5m/sec spring speed
This partitioning into these two ranges increases and extends the function of ride travel and safety.
In order to make changes, first note the basic adjustment to give you a basis to work and test from. Under these conditions you should complete your test run.
  1. Note the basic adjustments.
  2. Making changes to the rebound should be done in small steps with 1-2 clicks at a time (Note and record your changes).
  3. Test run: use a stretch of road you are familiar with.
  4. Note what affect the change had on the bike? Was it noticeable? Was it better or worse? Do I have to make further changes?
  5. Making changes to the compression phase in the high-speed and low-speed should be done in the same way. Note: adjustment to the low and high-speed should never be more than 5 clicks separating the two. Noting of these changes is very important!!
  6. In case you lose the overview you should revert back to the basis and start again.
Please examine the initial stress in the spring and the native spring travel according to the SKETCH on top of this page.
A = total spring travel-rear wheel of the ground: a = 100% negative spring travel or static sag, motorcycle weight without rider or luggage with correct spring rate:
B = A minus loaded sag motorcycle weight plus rider and luggage with correct spring rate:
C = A minus 1/3 from max, spring travel measurement from loaded sag = Suspension Travel.
Rule of Thumb for Static Sag:
Road: Front 20 Ü 30mm, Rear 5 - 10mm
Road race: Front 15 Ü 28mm, Rear 1 Ü 10mm
Off-road: Front 28 Ü 35mm, Rear 5 Ü 15mm
These values are reference points and they can vary up or down.

 

All work on a motorcycle should be carefully thought about and the work to be planned prior to starting. For a start you should obtain the necessary tools and have a good workspace.

The removal of the old shock and the fitting of the new shocks are feasible for everyone without special technical knowledge or talents. There are no special tools required.

 

In most cases it is necessary to remove the seat and tailpiece. Position the motorcycle on a workshop stand or on the center stand so that the back wheel is off the ground. Removal of the rear wheel is not necessary in most cases.

Loosen the bolts on the top and the bottom of the shock and remove it. If the shock absorber works on a lever system then it may be necessary to loosen or remove the lever system in order to remove the shock.

After the removal of the old shock, compare it to the new one (maybe the new one has a remote reservoir or a hydraulic spring tensioner). If it does not look like the old one, do not despair. You may have to find mounting points for the remote reservoir or hydraulic spring tensioner. Places may generally be found on the sub frame. You may also have to turn or rotate the new shock into its new position making sure to be careful. Once the new shock is in place make sure it does not touch any part of the bike that it shouldn't. Re-tension all the bolts to the manufacturers recommended settings.

When fitting the remote reservoir or hydraulic spring tensioner either in the original place or new one, use the new clips and rubber mounts. If a new position is to be used try to make sure it is not on the same side as the chain. Also, make sure that the hose is not stressed and does not rub on anything (i.e. Tyre). Ensure that the remote reservoir or hydraulic spring tensioner do not interfere with the movement of the suspension on full travel.

Last but not least, make sure you check all the nuts and bolts. And please, do not make any adjustments to the shock before a test ride. [ SEE ADJUSTMENTS ]

We hope you have a problem free installation and with it a completely new and better riding experience.